Upright Lock- Put full weight down on opponent. Grip- Target your opponent's extremities and grab and hold on with teeth. Claws sheathed.įront Paw Strike- Slice downward with your front paw on the face or body of opponent. This move can be applied to cats, foxes, badgers, and any animal bigger then a cat.įront Paw Blow- Bring down paw hard on opponents head. Then you slide your claws into their neck until he/she dies. You get on your opponent’s back and place a paw on either side of his/her neck. If you are not properly trained is it not recommendedĭouble Neck Claw- A killing move. The cats that do this are usually good at holding their breath and have strong paws and legs. Water Battling- A special style of battling in and under water. If you are not properly trained it is not recommended The cats that do this usually have exceptional balance and intelligence. Tree Battling- A special style of battling in the tree tops. When you do manage to get close enough you take your front paws and slam each paw on a shoulder shifting as much of your own weight as you can into your paws for maximum damage. Shoulder Pound- A move that can wind your opponent or even brake their shoulders, either way you have to get in close enough first. However if you don’t do it right you will more likely break your neck when you make contact with the ground If done properly the opponent will have broken his/her neck or been severely winded giving you enough time to kill them. When you feel it’s correct you launch yourself out of the tree with as much strength as you can onto your opponent. You climb up high into a tree and aim carefully at an unsuspecting opponent. This move makes you vulnerable to the belly rake, so requires great strength and speedĭeadly Tree Jump- A very dangerous move for both cats involved. If opponent does same, wrestle and flip him under you. Rear up on back legs and bring full weight down on opponent. Upright Lock- Final, crushing move on already weakened opponent.
#FIGHTING MOVES FREE#
This move is similar to the leap-and-hold except your claws remain free to fight Teeth Grip- Target you opponent’s extremities-the legs, tail, scruff or ears-and sink in your teeth and hold. Most effective against rats, which are small enough to throw will stun or kill them Scruff Shake- Secure a strong teeth grip in the scruff of your opponent’s neck then shake violently until he or she is too rattled to fight back. This will throw off an unwary opponent and put you in an attacking position When your opponent relaxes his grip, thinking you are defeated push yourself up explosively. Play Dead- Effective in a tight situation, such as when you are pinned. Slashing, clawing, and leaping together, battle pairs can be a whirlwind of danger for attackers
Partner Fighting- Warriors who have trained and fought together will often instinctively fall into a paired defensive position, each protecting the other’s back while fending off an opponent on either side. Watch for the drop-and-roll counter move, and try to jump free before you get squashed A group of apprentices can defeat a large and dangerous warrior in this way.
Now you are beyond the range of your opponent’s paws and in position to inflict severe body wounds. Spring onto opponent’s back and grip with unsheathed claws. Leap-And-Hold- Ideal for a small cat facing a large opponent. Killing Bite- A death blow to the back of the neck. Bring your front paw down hard on your opponent’s head. If you’re pinned down, the belly rake quickly puts you back in control Slice with unsheathed claws across soft flesh of opponent’s belly. Judge opponent’s distance from you carefully then lash out with your back legs, taking your weight on your front pawsīelly Rake- A fight-stopper. Back Kick- Explosive surprise move to catch opponent from behind.
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